During our 50 Under $50 series, we discovered that several of our favorite stores (Target, Forever 21, and others) had been accused of abusing their workers. We were disturbed, to say the least, but persisted with the series, intending to address the issue in another post--i.e., this one.
We want to dress well on our limited budget, while at the same time not support practices that harm workers or the environment. It should be easy, but the truth is that most major retailers engage in some questionable practices, and it's difficult, if not impossible, to shop "mainstream" and not risk supporting unethical behavior. Yet totally opting out isn't a practical option for most of us either. So what to do?
Our subsequent research yielded the info in this article, which, while barely scraping the surface of this complex issue, should give beginners enough to be getting on with. Enjoy, and please share your opinions and resources with us in comments!
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING: A NOTE ON CLOTHING MAINTENANCE
According to Treehugger, clothing maintenance has the greatest impact on the environment, not production. That means the best thing you can do for the environment is a) choose clothes that are hand or machine washable (not dry clean only); b) delay washing items until they truly need it; and c) hang clothes to dry instead of using the dryer.
The best part about this, of course, is that avoiding dryers and dry cleaning is easy, saves you money, and keeps your clothes from wearing out prematurely. It's totally win-win.
SUSTAINABLE FASHION RESOURCES
SUSTAINABLE CLOTHING OPTIONS
No matter where you shop, be sure to buy permanent, rather than fast, fashion. In other words, buy well-constructed, timeless pieces that you'll wear for years, not just one season. Read more about permanent vs fast fashion in this International Herald Tribune article. Then check out these five sources for sustainable style.
YOUR OWN CLOSET
As much as you can, use the clothing you already have! Once every few months, sort through your clothes and take stock. If you no longer wear certain items, try to figure out why not, and determine if you can fix them. Some items are just not flattering, and nothing short of a complete overhaul will do. In many cases, however, things can be fixed.
For yellow armpit stains, I've heard that OxiClean (of the cheesy infomercial--seriously!) works well. Holes can be sewn up or patched under (particularly in the crotch area, where pants tend to give out eventually). Unstylish items can be rescued with a few tweaks. Perhaps an item merely needs new buttons, or perhaps a skirt or dress can be tailored to a new length (the Wardrobe Refashion blog converted too-short pants into an incredibly cute skirt). Misshapen sweaters and bulky shirts can easily be brought in on the sides, clothes in unflattering colors or with stains can be dyed, and plain items can embellished with embroidery, sequins, or even iron-on designs.
If you don't want an item, but it's still in fairly good condition, you also have a lot of budget & eco-friendly options. You can sell clothes on-line, through eBay or through your own website (some also use blogs, like the ingenious Shop My Closet, to sell old items). Other possibilities include consignment shops (best for well-kept designer clothing), clothing swaps, or donations to Goodwill, The Salvation Army, or other thrift shops (for the good karma & tax write-off).
Even if you've simply worn an item to death, you can still make use of it. Fabric scraps can be used by quilts, for patches, for cleaning rags, for tool belts, for aprons, for bowling bags...
VINTAGE
Vintage is essentially recycled clothing, and requires no additional labor or energy to produce. One thing to watch out for, however, is that many vintage clothes require dry cleaning, which we've already mentioned as being bad for both the environment and your budget.
See our On-line Vintage Clothing Directory for a list of our favorite on-line vintage stores. We'll also try to post vintage shopping how-tos and tips soon.
RECONSTRUCTED VINTAGE/RECYCLED CLOTHING
Another burgeoning industry is reconstructed vintage clothing--i.e. using old clothes to create new, unique fashions. It's a pretty exciting area, although too many times recycled materials = fugly clothes (Project Runway, anyone?). Some labels to know: Tara Subkoff's Imitation of Christ, featured in the current BUST issue (Aug/Sept 2006); Toronto's Preloved; & this old thing? (menswear).
Closely related to reconstructed vintage clothing are clothes made from repurposed non-clothing material. For example, I've seen umbrellas repurposed for clothing and toilet paper wedding gowns. Accessories and household goods offer more recycled options, like Freitag's famous bags (plus their countless imitators), and items from recycled tires, recycled candy wrappers, recycled telephone wire...the list goes on.
DIY
By making your own clothing, you eliminate some transportation costs. You can buy & use organic or vintage fabrics. You also know who has made your clothing, and in what working conditions. Finally, and most importantly, you can tailor your clothing to your needs, your body, your ethics, and your aesthetics.
Luckily, it's a great time to be a DIYer. Sites like Craftster and PatternReview.com offer advice and community, as do countless blogs. Helpful books (like Reader's Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing & Patternmaking for Fashion Design) abound. Blogging software (see That's Hot, Modish, Miss Malaprop for starters) and auction sites like eBay and Etsy also offer entrepreneurial DIYers more effective ways to promote and sell their work.
Alternatively, you can buy handmade clothing from indie designers. There are too many talented designers out there (yet another post), but here are some to start with:
GREEN DESIGNERS
Green clothing lines are still playing catch-up. Options are limited, and appear prohibitively expensive compared to less sustainable options. Green clothes also still tend to be very "yoga," although thankfully that's changing. Check out fiftyRX3's shopping sidebar for a nice list of lines & shops. If you have time to surf, Treehugger's Fashion archive is probably the most complete green design resource out there.
Other resources, information we should know about? Write us below!